
“Il Fornaio” gets a bad rap. Sure, it’s a chain – at least around the Bay Area – and they’re not likely to win any culinary competitions or satisfy the hardcore foodies looking to stretch the bounds of culinary arts. But for hardy Italian bistro fare, a relaxed atmosphere, and a service staff that seems to care that you’ve stopped by, Palo Alto’s Il Fornaio is a sure bet. And check out the crowd – is it ever empty – even in this economy?
For Belle and me, this is the favorite week night dinner haunt – the perfect place to share a wood-fired oven pizza, a plate of pasta, and a bottle of wine. Translated, il fornaio is literally ‘the baker”, and they live up to their name well: fresh breads, pizza’s done the Napoli way – thin crust and light cheese - and heavenly cookies – but I’ll get to the cookies later. The menu can be a bit intimidating, especially with the addition of the special featured “regional menus”, so my advice: let your server decide. We’ve found the staff knowledgeable and well versed, and in our experience, dead on with choices we’d not have considered. Take the pizza. We’re fans of the simple margarita – tomato, mozzarella, some basil, but, on the advice of our waiter - throw on some prosciutto and fresh ground pepper – magnifico! The prawn dishes – excellent, and we’re typically not big shrimp eaters, but got steered that way and found a winner. Another sure bet is the simple but reliable Vodka Penne, a light vodka cream sauce over an ample portion of penne al dente.
As far as the wine, a more than adequate selection, weighted as expected to Italian, but a good California selection as well, most notable in the wide range of choices wines by the glass. Though we usually settle for a glass of Zinfandel on a quiet Monday night out, this week we brought a bottle of Argyle’s 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir. I’ve become a believer in Oregon Willamette Valley pinots, and as far as I’m concerned, if Argyle is not the best of the region, they certainly fill out the top five with Domaine Serene, Cristom, Ponzi, and Shea.
So dessert – why go to a bakery restaurant if you’re not going for the dessert? But if the excellent dessert cart looks just a bit too decadent, let your waiter put together a plate of home baked Italian cookies - fresh, not overly sweet, and definitely unique. And while a true Italian wouldn’t ever have a cappuccino after breakfast – hey, we’re in Silicon Valley! – so go with for it! We think it’s the best in the valley.
Bottom line: So for that casual, spur-of-the-moment dinner that feels a bit like coming home for the holidays, I’ll give Il Fornaio four of five stars. -- GG