Fleur de Lys, San Francisco, Ca: February 21, 2009

Since celebrating Belle’s birthday two years ago we’ve been talking of returning to Herbert Keller’s renowned San Franciscan landmark, Fleur de Lys. So with another birthday imminent, we returned to what fans of both Zagat’s and Open Table rate as one the most romantic restaurants in San Francisco, a sumptuous and elegant feast for the eye as well as the palate in a setting reminiscent of dinner inside the tent of an Algerian sheik. As good as we remembered? Better – a parade of imaginative dishes paced at a leisurely three hours, served by a friendly and competent staff that seemed genuinely pleased to have us as guests. At the offering of sommelier Marcus Garcia, we tossed the menus aside and let him decide, specially selected for our wines – supposedly five courses but easily double that considering all the extras served as chef Keller’s complements. Across a sea of Keller’s inventive delicacies, picking a favorite is a challenge, but last night, the “Snake River Beef” was the clear winner – an impossibly tender and savory cut, served with whipped potatoes, shredded union, and tubes of ground chick pea “french fries” (sounds disgusting but delicious), which won rave reviews from all five. The contenders – the truffle-infused gnocchi, served on the side with the hazelnut encrusted scallop – my second favorite – and a salad featuring Dungeness crab and a mini-spoon of lobster mouse topped with caviar. We added the cheese course – the most filling of all – with five French cheeses ranging from a pungent Roquefort to a savory truffle goat cheese. The desserts added a unique twist – a different selection for the women and men, each a medley of five different selections, followed by more complementary beignets and mini-pastries.

The wine: we brought our usual “bottle of bubbly, bottle of red” – a spectacular Taittinger and the 1986 Clerc Milon Bordeaux, which was superb but definitely a wine that needs food, as especially for Belle, it improved dramatically along side that incredible beef. But in addition to our own “take-ins”, we let the sommelier select the wines for the fish and cheese courses, a 2006 Talbott “Sleepy Hollow Vineyard” Chardonnay and a 2002 southern-Rhone Grenache-Syrah blend, a surprising pick, considering port a more traditional choice. Both were remarkable, and while we rarely drink whites, the chardonnay was cold, smooth, not oakey, and unlike any chard I can remember. Enough to make us believers, for sure. K&L has it – only $30 bucks – and I’ve ordered a bottle. And the Grenache? Unbelievable – I would have guessed it a pinot noir, but without the “perfume” you often get with the lighter pinots. This was fruity, slightly sweet, and the perfect complement to the cheese.

Bottom line: It’s hard to imagine it being any better – an experience that will set the standard to which subsequent outings will be compared. -- GG

Marche, Menlo Park, Ca: February 7 and 14, 2009

After a wonderful dinner at Menlo Park’s most elegant eatery on February 7th, we changed our Valentine’s Day plans at Flea Street and signed up for Marche’s surprisingly affordable ($65/person - $20 less than Flea Street) chocolate-infused Valentine’s Day prix fixe menu. One of the more unique aspects of Marche’s setting is the front room seating, which, for the booths on the right side, open to windows viewing the kitchen. It seemed a bit tacky initially, but later found it fascinating watching the sous chef’s running around preparing the various dishes – a true Food Network Reality Show. Next time, I’d definitely request a seat with a “kitchen view”.

As I sit writing this a week later, I don’t remember all the details, but what stands out is the main course: venison, medium rare for all, done with a reduction of some kind that if not memorable in name, certainly was in flavor. We started with a fois gras course, done as a mousse – excellent – though not as good as the grilled version that Lorie and I choose as our appetizers the week before. Desserts – predictably chocolate, decadent, and delicious, but that special touch was the doggie bag of chocolate truffles to take home. Well done. I’d say service was adequate but not the highlight – the staff could have done a better job explaining each course. They seemed either a bit harried or lacking the confidence and/or knowledge you’d expect in a restaurant of this caliber.

The Wines: an appropriately pink Domaine Carneros Rose for Valentine’s Day – my vote for the best California sparkling wine, and a 1990 Pommard “Epenots” Burgundy. The prior week, we also had a 1990 Burgundy – the Echezeaux, Grand Cru, Maniere-Noirot. While I worried that they might be a bit past their primes, both were outstanding, though I’d give the edge to the Pommard – which was also the cheaper of the two (not that we could find either again).

Bottom line: Its great to have such a classy high-end restaurant this close to home, and while not at the level of Chez TJ, nearly half the price. -- GG

Piacere, San Carlos, Ca: January 31, 2009

Laurel Street in San Carlos, only a block off El Camino is a world away in its concentration of trendy restaurants, bistros, and wine bars that range from the highly acclaimed (and highly priced) “Town” to low cost pizza and Chinese spots. After a couple of great lunches and a very well done LiteScape Christmas party at Piacere, we decided to give dinner a try. We could hardly have been more pleased!

There are certainly no shortages of Mediterranean restaurants with an Italian-lean in the Bay area, but Piacere raises the bar a notch in most all categories – ambiance, food quality, and service – without going crazy with the prices. Piacere is a large place with a wide range of seating choices, from a large and well heated outdoor patio (lots of folks eating outside for a January night), to bar seating, and a large and sophisticated main dining room. There is also a table in the well-stocked wine room – I suspect seating can be arranged in there ahead of time for a special event.

We started with a mix of appetizers that ran the range from standard – oysters on the half shell and beef carpaccio – to an unusual white fish spread served with crackers. But the hit was the polenta, served in layers with mushrooms and veggies done just right - crisp on the outside, soft and delicious inside.

The entrees – definitely among the top of the past few months. The best – a toss up between Belle’s skirt steak, wood-grilled Meyer beef with a marinade that wasn’t highlighted but certainly was terrific. A real close second – and it was really hard picking the winner – was the osso bucco – melt-in-your-mouth tender and served on a bed of paparadelle – a real treat. And while osso bucco can tend to be overwhelming, the portion was perfect. But here’s the best part. Bill was debating over the buffalo medallions or the osso bucco, and the waitress, who was terrific, suggested the buffalo since it was different. And it was, but very dry. We mentioned that to the waitress, who immediately and graciously offered to replace it with the osso bucco – without a hassle and apologetically. The kind of touch that results in unshakable loyalty and for sure, many positive recommendations.

Deserts – Belle and I split a decadent chocolate bread pudding, topped with blood orange sorbet (which I got in trouble for – again – for eating more than my share). Bill and Lorie went with the Meyer Lemon tart – another winner.

The wine, and here’s another point that raises Piacere above the crowd: they have an actual sommelier who is excellent – the kind of guy you typically only find in restaurants with second mortgage-class price tags. He immediately took the red – a 1996 Turley Zin that we were afraid may be past due, decanted it and, unsolicited, tasted it, making sure that indeed it was OK. And it was – smooth, fruity, definitely ripe, definitely zin. Same service for the champagne – got the ice bucket going, and even set up a special side table to hold the wines for easy access during dinner. The Champagne: out of the world! A Deutz from Ay in Champagne, crisp and light, and definitely one of the best we’ve had (in a long list of awesome Champagnes and sparklings). But this is one we’d definitely go for again – and again.

Bottom line: Definitely a four star and definitely the kind of place to make a regular. -- GG

I Gatti, Los Gatos, Ca: January 28, 2009

What a great way to spend an afternoon – a little Italian bistro, very unassuming, and very pleasant outdoor dining amongst some great little flower boxes along Main Street. Somehow, although right along the street, you get the feeling that you are in an outdoor European cafe when dining at I Gatti. The restaurant interior is a big room with quite a few tables nicely spaced and a décor that is both rustic and homey, but very appealing appearing to have been done by a caring individual rather than the current “modern” finishes you see in the “vogue” restaurant décor of today.

Service was extremely friendly however extremely slow. Although slow, it certainly was worth the wait. The food was delicious, very flavorful with ample portions. This is definitely a restaurant we need to go back to try out dinner and see if it is enjoyable as lunch! It is most certainly a great place to start or end an afternoon hike in the Los Gatos area!

Bottom line: Definitely a keeper for lunch; dinner will be another dining experience. I’ll give I Gatti four of five stars for a lunch experience. -- BG

Il Fornaio, Palo Alto, Ca: January 26, 2009

“Il Fornaio” gets a bad rap. Sure, it’s a chain – at least around the Bay Area – and they’re not likely to win any culinary competitions or satisfy the hardcore foodies looking to stretch the bounds of culinary arts. But for hardy Italian bistro fare, a relaxed atmosphere, and a service staff that seems to care that you’ve stopped by, Palo Alto’s Il Fornaio is a sure bet. And check out the crowd – is it ever empty – even in this economy?

For Belle and me, this is the favorite week night dinner haunt – the perfect place to share a wood-fired oven pizza, a plate of pasta, and a bottle of wine. Translated, il fornaio is literally ‘the baker”, and they live up to their name well: fresh breads, pizza’s done the Napoli way – thin crust and light cheese - and heavenly cookies – but I’ll get to the cookies later. The menu can be a bit intimidating, especially with the addition of the special featured “regional menus”, so my advice: let your server decide. We’ve found the staff knowledgeable and well versed, and in our experience, dead on with choices we’d not have considered. Take the pizza. We’re fans of the simple margarita – tomato, mozzarella, some basil, but, on the advice of our waiter - throw on some prosciutto and fresh ground pepper – magnifico! The prawn dishes – excellent, and we’re typically not big shrimp eaters, but got steered that way and found a winner. Another sure bet is the simple but reliable Vodka Penne, a light vodka cream sauce over an ample portion of penne al dente.

As far as the wine, a more than adequate selection, weighted as expected to Italian, but a good California selection as well, most notable in the wide range of choices wines by the glass. Though we usually settle for a glass of Zinfandel on a quiet Monday night out, this week we brought a bottle of Argyle’s 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir. I’ve become a believer in Oregon Willamette Valley pinots, and as far as I’m concerned, if Argyle is not the best of the region, they certainly fill out the top five with Domaine Serene, Cristom, Ponzi, and Shea.

So dessert – why go to a bakery restaurant if you’re not going for the dessert? But if the excellent dessert cart looks just a bit too decadent, let your waiter put together a plate of home baked Italian cookies - fresh, not overly sweet, and definitely unique. And while a true Italian wouldn’t ever have a cappuccino after breakfast – hey, we’re in Silicon Valley! – so go with for it! We think it’s the best in the valley.

Bottom line: So for that casual, spur-of-the-moment dinner that feels a bit like coming home for the holidays, I’ll give Il Fornaio four of five stars. -- GG

Michael's at Shoreline Restaurant, Mountain View, Ca: January 21, 2009

One of our favored weekly walks is the loop from Bixby Park to Michael's and back again to Bixby Park. Michael's is a fabulous lunch spot - inexpensive yet hearty with a flare. The self serve lunches are great especially if the weather is nice and there is a table outside for dining. Watching the golfers and birds while eating makes for a nice relaxing experience.

Bottom line: Great lunch location for outdoor dining. -- BG

California Cafe, Stanford, Ca: January 17, 2009

With a late afternoon Stanford basketball game competing with the Saturday evening dinner slot, a local spot was pretty much a foregone conclusion, so after Stanford surprisingly and handily spanked Cal, we headed over to The California Café – the one tucked away in the Stanford old barn off the fringes of the campus and the Stanford Shopping Center. Granted, the Cal Café is not an especially imaginative choice, nor a likely stop for the Michelin crowd. And if it feels a bit dated – like stepping back into the California of the 80’s – dorky little touches like “Water” or “Fire” sections on the menu (“Seafood”, “grilled food” – get it?) – but its neither stuffy nor pretentious, and projects its own quirky charm.

The food this night – from adequate to excellent, with the unanimous winner the “Salmon Spring Rolls” – they can be found under the, um, “lively” section of “small plates” menu (so as not to be confused with appetizers that are “sassy”, “savory”, or simply “leafy”). Whatever, we’d list them under “terrific” – fresh, faintly spicy, a definitely refreshing update on a standard dish. I had the raw oysters on the half shell, medium sized, fresh, but notable in the lemon sorbet they were served with – nice twist to a starter that is hard to screw up as long as the oysters are fresh and cold. For the entrée, I went with the ancho chili-lacquered scallops served over jalapeño cheddar cornbread, pepper jus, and corn foam for $29 bucks. Big name for a small dish, but different. Only moderate heat considering the ingredients, plump, juicy scallops in an unusual combination. Good choice. There were a couple orders of togarashi seared sushi-grade ahi around the table, alos $29 bucks< style="font-weight: bold;">Bottom line: a steady, solid, and reliable if not spectacular choice – give it 3 of 5. -- GG